Restoring and caring for a vintage leather sofa

A vintage leather sofa by Ligne Roset, Cassina or De Sede is made to be used, to wear and to last. Unlike new leather, old leather has built up over several decades a patina that is part of its value, and that is worth keeping. Telling patina, which should be preserved, from damage, which should be treated, choosing the right products and knowing when to call a professional: that is what keeps a sofa going, and it has often cost several thousand euros. Here is a method, along with the mistakes that cannot be undone.

Patina or damage: telling them apart

What counts as patina (to be preserved)

General darkening of the leather in the areas of use (seat, arms).
Regular surface crazing, with no loss of material.
Areas burnished by the rubbing of clothes.
Slight variation in tone between exposed and unexposed areas.

This is what makes vintage leather impossible to imitate. A De Sede DS-600 (the Non-Stop "snake" of 1972, designed among others by Ueli Berger) whose patina has been sanded away entirely loses much of its character, however good the restoration.

What counts as damage (to be treated)

Deep cracks with loss of material.
Clean tears, especially at the joins.
Delamination (the grain layer coming away from the leather beneath).
Mould after damp storage.
A persistent smell of tobacco, damp or animals.

These problems need attention, sometimes from a professional. Badly treated, they get worse quickly.

Products to use

For routine care

Neutral glycerine soap diluted in lukewarm water, applied with a soft cloth, rinsed off straight away and dried.
Nourishing leather milk based on beeswax and natural oils (Saphir, Famaco, Avel), two to four times a year.
A microfibre cloth for weekly dusting.

For dry or tired leather

Enriched balm (such as Saphir or Avel Rénovateur), applied lightly.
Neatsfoot oil on very dry leather, with care, as too much darkens it permanently.

Products to avoid

Alcohol, acetone, white spirit: they destroy the finish.
Disinfectant wipes: their alcohols and perfumes attack the grain.
Silicone-based products (labelled "shine" or "quick conditioning"): they form a film that eventually hardens and cracks the leather.
Pigmented shoe polish: its pigments are made to be worked into a shoe with a brush, not spread over a seat.
Bleach: it dries the leather out immediately and irreversibly.

Worked examples by house

Ligne Roset leathers of the 1970s (Togo, Kali)

Ligne Roset leathers of the 1970s are full-grain with a semi-aniline finish; they age well but dry out. Care: glycerine soap twice a year, nourishing milk three times a year. Avoid prolonged direct sunlight, which turns them brick red.

Cassina LC2 and LC3 in leather

The leathers on Cassina LC pieces are thick full-grain hides that take enriched balms well. One point to watch: the seams at the corners of the cushions, which pull over time. Preventive reinforcement stitched by hand by a saddler noticeably extends the life of the cushion.

De Sede DS-600 (Non-Stop) and DS-47

De Sede leather is the Swiss house's hallmark: thick, with a natural finish, vegetable-tanned for some runs. It reacts badly to industrial products and well to pure natural oils and waxes. The patina of a 1970s DS-600 can be very beautiful, and it is better to protect it than to aim for an even look.

When to call a professional

Four situations call for a saddler-upholsterer or a specialist restorer:

A clean tear: hand stitching is always better than glue.
Delamination: the grain layer sometimes has to be refixed with a professional leather varnish.
Re-foaming: replacing the foam under the leather is a delicate job, which may mean removing the whole cover.
Re-dyeing: to be kept for extreme cases, as it erases the patina. Ask for a test on a hidden area first.

A serious restoration on a designer leather sofa costs between 600 and 3,500 euros depending on the work, to be weighed against the value of the piece and the interest of keeping it in original condition.

When in doubt, preserve rather than cover up, and keep restoration as a last resort.

FAQ

Can a small tear be repaired at home? A tear of under one centimetre in an area that takes little strain can be stabilised with a neutral leather glue. Beyond that, a saddler is the safer option.

How often should vintage leather be nourished? Two to four times a year depending on exposure. Leather left without care for several years can become beyond recovery.

Can faded leather be recovered? Partly, with nourishing and a neutral pigmented balm. If the colour has gone across the whole surface, professional re-dyeing is needed.

Is direct sunlight harmful to vintage leather? Yes. UV light oxidises the tanning oils and dries the leather. A sofa in full southern light should be protected or moved.

How much does a full restoration cost? From 600 euros for small repairs to 3,500 euros for re-dyeing with re-foaming and restitching, to be weighed against the value of the piece.

Restoring and caring for a vintage leather sofa