Vintage Scandinavian sideboards: teak, rosewood, oak
The Scandinavian sideboard, the central piece of Danish interiors in the 1950s and 1960s, is today one of the most active segments of the European vintage market, and one of the most confusing. The term covers three very different woods, teak, rosewood and oak, worked over two decades by designers with opposing approaches, in workshops some of which are still poorly documented. Choosing a sideboard therefore means choosing a wood first, then a period, then a signature. Here are some reference points for buying with full knowledge, and the care each wood needs.
The three woods
Teak
Teak was the dominant wood in Danish furniture between 1955 and 1970. Imported mainly from Burma and Thailand (the ambiguous term "Burmese teak" is sometimes used), it is hard enough for furniture and warm in appearance, with a pronounced but quiet grain and a golden tone that darkens slightly over time.
Designers associated with teak: Hans J. Wegner (for Getama, PP Møbler), Arne Vodder (for Sibast), Johannes Andersen, Ib Kofod-Larsen.
Care: teak is rich in natural oils. It is maintained with teak oil, every 12 to 24 months depending on use, and above all not with wax, which stops the wood breathing and holds dust.
Rosewood
Darker, with a pronounced grain and a tone ranging from chocolate brown to purplish black. Rio rosewood (Dalbergia nigra), the most sought after, has been listed by CITES since 1992 and its international trade is regulated. Older pieces in Rio rosewood circulate freely in Europe with proof of age.
Designers associated with rosewood: Finn Juhl (for Bovirke, France & Søn), Poul Kjaerholm (for E. Kold Christensen, then Fritz Hansen), and some pieces by Wegner.
Care: rosewood is more demanding than teak. It reacts badly to changes in humidity, which crack it, and to UV light, which fades it. It is maintained with pure linseed oil or with suitable hard waxes (Osmo type), never with a silicone-based product.
Oak
Rarer in high-end Danish furniture, oak was used mainly by workshops looking for a lighter, more architectural result. Soaped oak, treated with soap to protect it while keeping it very pale, is a Danish speciality.
Designers associated with oak: Børge Mogensen (for Fredericia), Hans J. Wegner (some pieces for FDB Møbler), and partly Nanna Ditzel.
Care: soaped oak is maintained with mild soap (soap flakes or similar), never with a petroleum-based product. Oiled oak is maintained with diluted oak or linseed oil.
The periods: learning to read a sideboard
1950-1960: the classic period
Danish production was organised around recognised workshops (France & Søn, Sibast, Getama, Fredericia). The joinery is of high quality: visible mortise-and-tenon joints, laminated slatted backs, solid wood bases. Pieces are marked with a stamp or a copper plate underneath.
1960-1970: wider production, still carefully made
Workshops grew and production became more industrial while remaining careful. Finishes became more standardised, and bases in chromed steel tube appeared.
After 1970: a gradual decline
High-end Danish production lost ground to international competition. Sideboards made after 1975 often show compromises (reconstituted woods, less careful finishing) and have to be judged case by case.
How to choose: four criteria
- The wood: teak for easy everyday use, rosewood for a collector's piece, oak for a lighter, more architectural result.
- The signature: a piece by Wegner or Juhl sells for several times the price of an anonymous piece of the same period. A well-made anonymous piece is still often a better buy than a doubtful signature.
- The condition: a heavily restored sideboard is of less interest to a collector. A piece in original condition with a consistent patina is preferable, even if you have to oil it yourself.
- The proportions: Danish sideboards are generally low (75 to 80 cm high). Check that they suit the room they are going into.
Common pitfalls
- "Teak" that is not teak: some 1970s production uses lower-grade Indonesian teak, or wood stained to imitate it. Check the grain and the density.
- Rio rosewood without documentation: export sales outside the EU are prohibited. For use in France or the EU this is not a problem, but it must be checked before any purchase intended for a move abroad.
- Heavy-handed restoration: a sideboard re-varnished with polyurethane is still usable, but it loses its interest for a collector. Ask for photographs before and after any restoration.
FAQ
Does a recently oiled teak sideboard lose its patina? No, if the oiling is done properly (teak oil, a cloth, no excess). The patina comes from the ageing of the wood itself, which light oiling nourishes without removing.
Can teak and rosewood be mixed in the same interior? Yes. The two woods already sat side by side in Danish interiors of the period.
How can Rio rosewood be told from Indian rosewood? Rio has a darker grain and purplish reflections; Indian rosewood tends towards red-brown. A trained eye sees the difference clearly; if in doubt, it is best to ask for an expert opinion.
What is the price range for a signed sideboard in good condition? As a guide, a Wegner or Juhl sideboard in rosewood in good condition often sells for between 6,000 and 15,000 euros depending on the model, an anonymous Danish teak sideboard for between 1,500 and 3,500 euros, and a Mogensen sideboard in oak for between 3,000 and 6,000 euros.
Should signature or condition come first? For a collector, the signature; for everyday use, the condition. It depends on what you are looking for.
Further reading
By
LAPIERRE MARKET
